How To Making dirt grade crossings and gravel lots

Making dirt grade crossings and gravel lots

By Angela Cotey | January 28, 2010

| Last updated on November 3, 2020


See how you can use real powdered dirt as ground cover for road surfaces

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Gravel-covered siding. Gravel from an adjacent lot can mix with ballast on a siding. Paul partially covered this siding (lower right) at the freight house on his home layout. He embedded the rails of the spur (at left) into the parking lot.
On some secondary lines the space between the ties is filled with dirt to form a simple grade crossing or gravel lot. I added a gravel lot to the spur on my diorama. The following technique is less messy than using plaster alone.

First I cut pieces of cardboard to fit the space between the rails and the approaches to track. You could also use foam board or styrene. I built up the area where the lot crosses the tracks to a height slightly below the railhead to ensure that locomotive wheels wouldn’t lose electrical contact. I also allowed about 1/16″ on each side of the cardboard for flangeways. Then I attached the cardboard to the track and scenery with white glue.

On his diorama, Paul built up a gravel lot using layers of cardboard. He used real powdered dirt as ground cover for the road surface.
On his diorama, Paul built up a gravel lot using layers of cardboard. He used real powdered dirt as ground cover for the road surface.
I blended the edges of the cardboard to the scenery base using plaster. Once the plaster dried, I painted it and the cardboard with tan latex paint. Then I sprinkled the wet surface with fine dust that I collect from a dirt road near my home. I used ground foam to model a few random weeds.

After all of the scenery had dried, I cleared the flangeways with a utility knife. Then I lightly sanded the gravel lot to simulate tire tracks from vehicles crossing the tracks.

25 thoughts on “Making dirt grade crossings and gravel lots

  1. I also use real dirt for some scenery. I usually find a construction sight with a lot of truck traffic,looking for the fine clay powder. It makes great dirt roads.

  2. Rather than fine dust, I use red clay. Collect dry clay, crush, and
    sift through a very fine tea strainer. Sprinkle onto a thined white
    glue surface and let dry. Vacuum up excess. The clay will look dry. Flood area with thined white glue and when dry the clay will look wet. This also looks good along foot paths, around
    fields, as well as unpaved roads.
    I enjoyed your tip!

  3. Great idea…I have a dirt road grade crossing that's on a curve. For dirt I use the ash residue from my charcoal grill briquets. It's like a powder and is the right color.

  4. Watch useing food products instead as one fellow thought … it will attract insects … including ants ! There's nothing more real looking than the real thing …. that includes real stones also .

  5. Nothing looks better than real dirt for dirt roads, parking lots, and grade crossings. The finer and drier the dirt, the better. I use dirt from a baseball diamond (We call it baseball mix in upstate NY) it is fine and once you screen it it is perfect. I apply it dry and then wet it throughly with "wet water and white glue". The crossing itself looks great if you use thin strips of basswood laid parallel to the tracks as in a prototype rail crossing. The wood can be trimmed from the flangeways and stained to look old. The final effect looks great.

  6. I believe the B&M Freighthouse is from Hodgdon Scale Models and is based upon the freight house at North Conway, NH. The actual structure is located adjacent to the well-known North Conway depot.

  7. I used a mixture of play sand and and light brick paver sand. Used the same modeling techniques as John R Green to achieve my southwest 50's layout for dirt roads and parking areas. Thanks to the guy that invented the Dustbuster . Appreciate the tip. Thanks

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