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The legendary model railroader Linn Westcott pioneered L-girder benchwork in the 1960s. But even today, it remains the most versatile layout framing system around! In this first of several instructional videos, MRVP’s David Popp shows you how to start assembling the key L-girder components to form the base for our all-new HO scale project, the Winston-Salem Southbound Railway. Join us over the course of this exclusive MRVP series, as we help take your layout building and modeling skills to the next level!
Great video David. I’m going to try L-girder on the next “expansion” of my layout. Just one minor point… its a protractor, NOT a compass for measuring your angles.
As I recall from my college days, wood is stronger in compression than it is in tension. Since a loaded beam supported at both ends is in tension on the bottom and compression on the top, the bottom of the beam should be the beefier portion. Therefore your L-girder should be mounted with the 1X2 on the bottom, not the top.
A nice time saving tip from the past is to build 2 L-girders at a time by nesting them in each other (make them full length and cut after). Makes it much easier to clamp and naturally compensates for slight warpage. Just don’t use so much glue that it oozes out and glue the two together permanently!
Need help on starting layout, I don’t want to have a problem like Erick did on that layout.
Granted when Linn built his L-girder it was not to be portable.
He used screws to manufacture the girders but then removed the screws to be used again – saving money.
This he did with a Yankee Drill/Screwdriver, A manually operated power screwdriver.
Put a spacer block in the gap between the wood and the bed of the chop saw to keep it from twisting –
much safer than clamping.
Please be more specific on the 2 inch screws used. Decking screws come in different gauges #6 #8 #10 etc.
coated and un coated
I don’t see why you can’t make the two l-girders parallel to each other, and adjust the joists to accommodate the differences between the sides of the layout. I think the L-girder framework would easily accomplish this without all the trouble to make one on one side of the layout and the other on the other side.
Is it important what kind of wood you’re using? Can it be the cheapest or does it have to be of higher quality?
Good detail makes following the process easy and reproducible. Thank you.
Just another wood working construction hint. Check for the crown (Sight down the edge) and place all with the high spot up
j just watched this video for the first time and have been working in a shop environment most of my life and need to tell you that the most dangerous piece is the powered miter box, it should be on a table up at waist height to be safe, Perry in Arizona
@Rafferty – I use 1×2 for L-girder and 1×3 for T-girder
Hey David,
Thanks for the great video, a wealth of knowledge. I'm building a small diorama modeled after the Jim Jordan painting, "Westbound Electrics." Unfortunately, I could only afford one Z1 electric locomotive as the folks on eBay bid up the others I want too much! I'm going to chronicle the project and hopefully submit it to MR when done. I picked up a few 1X 6 pine boards today and ripped 2" off to create the flange for my benchwork. They go together tomorrow.
Hi David,
I enjoy all the videos. A lot of good ideas.
I am starting my first layout and have a few questions:
1. Why do you use a 1 x 2 instead of a 1 x 3 for the flange? I see that when you installed the joists it seemed like it would be easier if the flange was wider.
2. I have an abundance of clamps and time so would it be OK to use just glue and clamp to form the girders?
3. Why only two cleats? I would think four one at each corner would be better?
Thanks, Dave
That was a protractor not a compass. Why not cut a six degree scarf cut on the cross web for a better fit? There is no need to drill a pilot hole when using all purpose screws in white wood.
Hi guys, just wondering why All your videos are so quiet. I listen to music and other videos on YouTube at half column and can hear fine, yet I have to turn yours all the way up and sometimes still have trouble hearing. Any reason for this?
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Great video I have been a carpenter for many years and I still pick up tips watching your videos. Keep them coming.
How about something a little more difficult…like a helix.
Nice video of walking us through a complicated application of bench work.
Thank you ver much for this handy video David.
Is there a chance of getting a PDF of the benchwork?
David, why not cut one end of the cross braces to six degrees also, so they fit flush with the angled L-girder? Also, wouldn't a 1×2 flange with a 1×3 web be sturdy enough for this layout?
Nothing like the smell of fresh cut pine to put you in the model railroad spirit! I enjoy David's benchwork videos because I always manage to pick up some tips. It took me a couple tries before I learned the hard fact that no railroad can be better than its supporting structure.
Great video David and going back to the John Armstrong article was a wonderful acknowledgement of a great model railroader. But are you a model railroader whose hobby is carpentry or are you a carpenter whose hobby is model railroading? In either case you are very good at both 🙂
I have a drop-down section to add as I get ready to close the final gap on my model railroad. It is a trapezoid like the Winston-Salem Southbound, so these ideas are great for what needs to be done. Our model railroad circle of friends has a running joke, "What would General Palmer do?" Maybe we should change that to, "What would David Popp do?"