In this quick how-to video, Eric White shows you how a little bit of filing can go a long way when trying to fix the pesky wobble on a boxcar.
VIDEO TRANSCRIPT BELOW:
Ready to run models can be great, but sometimes you need to do a little tuning. Take a look at this.
You notice I can move the model, but the truck stay on the track. That’s not the way it’s supposed to be. So when you have a problem like this, the first thing to do is just to tighten up the screws in the bottom of the trucks.
I’ve got a screwdriver.
We’ve got the model.
So I will come in here.
Got my screwdriver and that’s tight.
And that’s wobbly.
So there must be something else going on. Let’s take a look.
So as you can see in there, the Kingpin actually stands up a little bit higher than the inside of the truck.
So the solution to that is to file it down.
Now there are a lot of things we can use to remove material, but I wouldn’t recommend any of these a short form.
A rasp.
A mill file.
You want something more like this.
Alright, just a few swipes here. Should do it.
I’m gonna try and hold this as flat as you can.
Just keep checking your work as you go.
Better ways to go there.
Let’s take a last look.
I think that’s what we’re looking for.
Back it up to hear the thread drop. There we go.
What I’m hoping will happen is I can tighten this down enough.
There we go.
Now the truck doesn’t really want to move.
And that’s good.
’cause I can back it off about 1/4 turn.
OK, so we give this A twist. We can see that it turns back and forth, but it doesn’t want to rock.
This one over here does rock, and that’s what we want that gives us what model railroaders call a 3 point suspension.
So let’s put it on the track.
You can see when I go to tip it.
The wheels are the ones that are trucks do come off.
But the other ones stay on so that gives you enough flexibility to get over any rough spots in the track.
So that’s a handy little tip to take care of the wobble on your cars in the layout. And the best part about it is you only have to do one end of the car.
Personally, I do not agree with the concept of the “3-point suspension.” I tighten both trucks until they will just freely rotate back and forth without any rebound at the end of the rotation. Adjustments come in VERY small turns of the screw – it’s more of a feel than an actual turn. Basically if you can [actually] see the screw move, you may have turned too far, whether loosening or tightening.
Also, IMO, the NMRA Standard for car weights is between 1 – 1¼ ounces too light. Simply heavier cars rock less, derail less and operate much more reliably.
Last, get rid of Delrin/plastic wheelsets!!!!!!!!!! Delrin, as a “self-lubricating plastic” is great for gears, but NOT for wheelsets. The plastic exudes oils which collect and distribute dirt all over your railroad and as the dirt builds up on the tires of the wheels, you get a non-circular tread pattern which results in bumping and rocking of the car. And no amount of tightening, 3-point suspension of tweaking will get rid of that. Metal wheelsets do not exude any substances which are detrimental to smooth operation AND running metal wheelsets [exclusively] WILL help keep your track clean. Other than cleaning track after ballasting or scenery overspray, etc., I have not had to clean any track in several years.
IMO and from nearly 50 years of experience in this hobby, particularly as the quality of the models and the metal wheelsets have grown on use and affordability.
Thanks Eric, Helps me a lot.
Great tip, have a bunch of cars to do this too!
Thanks Eric, I’ll try that on several of my “wobbly” freight cars.