News & Reviews News Wire Riding the Adirondack: photo report

Riding the Adirondack: photo report

By Bob Johnston | October 13, 2024

Despite challenges, train offer spectacular views, links communities between New York City and Montreal

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Brick Amtrak station shelter
The major intermediate communities served by the Adirondack are Saratoga Springs, Westport, and Plattsburgh, N.Y., but remote stops for which the train is the only available public transportation, like Whitehall, N.Y., take pride in a well-maintained shelter. Bob Johnston

A full-length heritage dome once operated seasonally on the New York-Montreal Adirondack north of Albany-Rensselaer, N.Y. That began during Amtrak’s 1990s product line era when managers focused on growing ridership and revenue on individual routes. The car was sold off during CEO Richard Anderson’s regime, although views are still terrific through Amfleet II coach windows.

Trains News Wire recently sought to reconnect with the beleaguered train on a recent fact-finding round trip north of Albany to Montreal. The service faces many challenges [see “Adirondack operating indifference …,” News Wire, Oct. 10, 2024], but the uniqueness of its journey is a rare East Coast gem. Here’s a look at what passengers experience.

View of telegraph/telephone pole next to tracks, as seen from train
Vestiges of the past: CPKC’s former Delaware & Hudson tracks north of Schenectady, N.Y., are now all welded rail, but dormant signal system code lines and telephone wires remain from an earlier era. Bob Johnston
Lake as seen from window of passenger car
About 20 minutes north of Whitehall, N.Y, the water show begins. For the next 3 hours to Plattsburgh, the train follows Lake Champlain and its tributaries. Both north and southbound trains cover this stretch in the afternoon, so sun illuminates from the west. Bob Johnston
View of tabled seating area inside passenger car
Activity in the Amfleet I café was brisk; the car provided a good place to view scenery on both sides. Though windows are narrower than those in Amfleet IIs, tables allow leisurely viewing. You won’t hear any stern warnings from staff demanding patrons return to their coach seats, as on some other Amtrak trains. About 75 travelers were aboard each Adirondack north of Albany; the lead coach (of four) was closed off on that segment. Bob Johnston
View of bridge from rear window of train's last car
A half-hour north of Westport on a sunny Oct. 1, fall colors were on display as the Adirondack passes over numerous bridges. Bob Johnston
Tracks through rock cut
Rock cuts are also part of the rugged terrain above Lake Champlina. Bob Johnston
Trailer next to tracks
The Canada Border Service Agency double-wide trailer at Lacolle, Que., just north of the border, is viewed through a dirty train window. The Adirondack sat for more than an hour at this garden spot while the sun went down and agents questioned passengers. Bob Johnston
On the northbound trip, a Canadian National freight train became disabled on the approach to the St. Lawrence River bridge 2 hours before the Adirondack’s scheduled Montreal Central Station arrival. It also prevented the departure of VIA Rail Canada’s Ocean for Halifax, Nova Scotia. With the Amtrak crew approaching its hours-of-service limit, the conductor advised passengers to leave the train at the St. Lambert suburban stop to avoid being stranded if a a relief operating crew had to be called. Many passengers departed, but the track cleared in time for the train to get to Central Station before the conductors and engineer “died.” Bob Johnston
Train in station
Moments before departure on Oct. 1, an Amtrak conductor waits for the highball. Bob Johnston

5 thoughts on “Riding the Adirondack: photo report

  1. It’s too bad riding certain Amtrak trains is such a challenge. I’ve pretty much have lost confidence in NARP to get Amtrak to manage trains properly. So where does that leave us?
    Should the most annoying trains be defunded (and not waste taxpayer money)? Or is there another answer?

  2. Preclearance for northbound travelers is a function of the Canadian government, not the US. We would be responsible for price clearance of southbound border-crossings, just as at any border crossing. Thus, “money to Ukraine or Israel” has less than nothing to do with it, nor does Senator Schumer or any other US official. The most we can do is request this of the Canadians. There had been some statements on the part of Canada that this would take place, but, thus far, nothing.

    1. Clearing US CBP is done at Rouses Point; Schumer indeed promised to move this to Central Station years ago.

      Clearing Canadian customs & immigration on arrival, like airports. In Vancouver for Cascades, clearance is in the station.

  3. One can dream what the patronage and service would be if the train had equipment like the SBB or regionals in Switzerland. *sigh* The incompetence and neglect of NYS, US and Canadian governments is appalling, added to the obvious disdain of both hosts CN and CPKC. And whatever happened to the supposed preclearance customs and immigration in Montréal promised years ago by Schumer… I suppose that money went to Ukraine or Israel.

    1. The pre-clearance of US Customs and Immigration at Montreal has been, continues to be, and likely will forever remain “2 to 3 years in the future.” It’s an attractive idea that garners a lot of discussion but no action.

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