Welcome aboard the Trains–Special Interest Tours 2024 Alaska by Rail holiday. Please join us as we travel on the Alaska Railroad for 9 days from Sept. 8 to 17, heading south from Fairbanks to Anchorage, Alaska.
Today is a travel day. Our group dined together last evening to wrap up the trip. Today we are trying to cram all the little bits of Alaska into our suitcases that will be coming home with us. It is then off to the airport and back to the Lower 48. Together we experienced and enjoyed a grand week on the Last Frontier.
Along the way there were a number of observations and little side adventures that made the trip fun, funny, and richer. These did not fit into some of the other Alaskan tales I shared with you, but today is a good day for a few random northern tundra thoughts.
Salmon — The fish is everywhere in Alaska. On the menu, in the art, in the rivers — everywhere. Now I like a good salmon, say planked and grilled, but up here salmon is not just for breakfast anymore. Salmon is actually served for breakfast in Alaska. Yesterday morning I enjoyed a salmon and cream cheese omelet. On this adventure menus have included: grilled salmon, salmon burgers, mango-glazed salmon, salmon dip and spread, salmon chowder, salmon poached in a tomato-herb sauce, and even the simplistic by comparison, lox on a bagel. It is fair to say that salmon in Alaska is equivalent to a good broasted chicken in the Midwest. When you visit Alaska, prepare your palette for a study in salmon. And for a final flip of the salmon, the Alaska Railroad makes a mean salmon chowder, which is available as part of the Gold Star Class dinner menu.
The shotgun — Roll back to Day 5 when we rode the flag-stop Hurricane Turn. As if the entire concept of this train was not mind-blowing enough another wrinkle was added during the stop at Curry.
The Alaska Railroad offers a train-jet boat experience combining a ride on the Turn from Talkeetna to Curry, then a jet boat ride back to Talkeetna. Curry was the original half-way point between Seward and Fairbanks. During the steam era, when Seward to Fairbanks took two days, a grand hotel stood at Curry. It was the overnight stop on the journey. In its demise, the hotel burned to the ground in April 1957.
Today, part of the train-boat tour is a walk through the remains of Curry. When the Turn stopped, the group taking the Curry walk to the boat detrained. Their guide was first off. As she waited for the group to assemble, the guide was working on a long object she had braced between her knees and the ground. The guide bent down and was inserting small green objects into the larger, longer object. At first I did not comprehend what she was doing, but then it hit me — she was loading a shotgun! On the train we had been warned that there were bears and moose in the area. While understanding the need for protection, the idea of an armed tour escort struck a funny chord with me. As with anything railroad: Safety first.
Tsunami Evacuation Route — While beautiful, mother nature’s Alaskan display can be deadly. Being a Midwesterner, I’m aware of summer tornado hazards and winter blizzards. However, a sign discovered along the way gave me pause and made me think. As we boarded our bus, Pendleton, after lunch in Whittier, I noticed a Tsunami Evacuation Route sign on the street corner. According to the Earthquake Center at the University of Alaska–Fairbanks, a tsunami can occur within minutes after an earthquake. Just like a tornado ripping across a Midwest farm field, a tsunami can strike with deadly and devastating force. And, just like having a tornado shelter plan, having a tsunami evacuation plan is critical. In this case, although unusual to a visitor, the sign points out a lifeline for Alaskan coastal residents.
Tanana Valley’s Model Railroad Club — There is no doubt that the Alaska Railroad is a vital part of the community. Just how many different ways this comes to the surface is fascinating. When you board the train in Fairbanks, leave a few extra minutes to visit the Tanana Valley Model Railroad Club layout in the depot. In the early 1980s, after an impressive holiday display at the University of Alaska Museum, the club was looking for a permanent home. The Alaska Railroad offered a storage building, which eventually resulted in a location off the depot waiting room. During the summer season, the club layout is open mornings before the Denali Star departs.
How impressive is this miniature version of the Alaska Railroad: For 12 of 13 years — 1984 to 1997 — Wm. K. Walthers Co., one of the largest model railroad suppliers in the United States, awarded the club its Showmanship Car Award for outstanding public model railroad displays. If the award had not been discontinued in 1997, the club would still be winning.
Hurricane Turn — Before we go, I need to include one final shot from the Alaska Railroad. Enjoy another look at the Hurricane Turn in Talkeetna.
Alaska — forget me not — It’s time to grab a final salmon burger, load up the luggage, which has swelled with small parts of Alaska coming home, call for an Uber, and catch the red-eye back to Wisconsin. Among the Alaskan symbols is the Forget-Me-Not flower. In this case, this small blue flower is sending a message: Alaska, forget me not. Savor the memories (and the delicious salmon) from this adventure. Come back soon, as every rail trip is a new adventure on the Last Frontier. Alaska, not to worry. I won’t soon forget you. I’ll be back!
An excellent series of well written articles on the Alaska Railroad and traveling by rail throughout Alaska in the summer months. You captured the spirit of traveling throughout Alaska well.
One comment though, we call it “Termination Dust” not Termination Snow as you have written. Termination Dust is the first trace of snow on the mountain peaks that doesn’t melt that comes in the fall. The other old adage of the oncoming winter is snow comes 6 weeks after the last of the Fireweed flowers at the very top bloom.
Lastly, come back and ride the winter train between Anchorage and Fairbanks. It is an entirely different adventure, and it combines the Hurricane Turn. You will come to appreciate the Last Frontier even more.
Doug Johnson; Anchorage, Alaska