In the Wisconsin Dells, tourism is the region’s life blood. The Riverside & Great Northern Railway, located just one mile north of the downtown area, is one destination worthy of a Grand scale visit. Yes, it is grand scale (well-known for park railroading) and operates on 15-inch gauge track, but the smaller size is fitting. Take it from me during my most recent visit to the railway to learn about its past, present, and future — all as big as the adjacent CPKC main line.
The past
For me, taking in the Riverside & Great Northern’s history meant circling all the way back to its 1940s origin with a father and son’s unorthodox venture. Elmer Sandley and his son Norman went into the business of manufacturing authentic, 15-inch gauge steam railroading equipment for potential common carriers in small U.S. communities and third-world countries. Weird as it may sound today, the duo saw a possible market back when they set up shop in Janesville, Wis. as the Sandley Light Railway Equipment Works and Riverside & Great Northern Railway – the latter intended as a two-mile demonstration railroad to promote the business.
Why the preferred gauge and manufacturing of steam locomotives? According to Riverside & Great Northern Preservation Society Inc. secretary Jim Schulz, who also served as my guide: “They felt that 15-inch gauge would be a good size and affordable, and steam was their emphasis even though the Class I railroads were pulling out of that [at the time].”
But with complaints from neighbors and little support from city leaders, the Sandleys decided to pack up and move their business to the Wisconsin Dells in 1952 after purchasing an abandoned right-of-way. The father and son had a hard time attracting their target customers, so they found work with parks, zoos, and private entities looking for equipment to run on their own railroads for amusement. That market eventually dried up, and in 1981, Norman declared bankruptcy. Most of the remaining equipment was sold to Tennessee’s Knoxville Zoo, leaving the facility and railroad abandoned by 1983.
Refusing to let this unique treasure vanish completely, supporters of both the Sandley Works and R&GN formed the Riverside & Great Northern Preservation Society in 1988. The next two years were spent rehabilitating the line, reactivating structures, repairing passenger cars, and returning to service steam locomotive No. 82 – a Sandley-built 4-4-0 that operated at the Milwaukee County Zoo from 1958 to the 1980s. The railway’s second chance at the hands of dedicated volunteers culminated in the reopening on May 15, 1990.
The present
There’s a lot more to the history of the Sandleys and the Riverside & Great Northern. During my visit on June 1 and 2, 2024, I was only able to scratch the surface. Which is why I highly recommend a visit for yourself to this authentic, living museum.
I also recommend a tour around the facility that took me straight into the heart of the campus: A 30-foot-long turntable still servicing a functional, five-stall roundhouse. Surrounding the centerpiece are burgundy-painted shop buildings that have stood tall since the early 1950s. Gone may be the days of contracting work, but most of these structures remain active in keeping the residential equipment preserved and operating.
Setting foot in this environment reminded me of the Nevada Northern Railway and East Broad Top Railroad with their infrastructure today mostly intact from their common carrier days. It’s not much of a stretch to place R&GN in that category.
Rides along the 1.5-mile railroad are offered daily, Memorial Day through Labor Day, and select weekends in May and September through December. From 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., trains depart from the two-story Hyde Park station every hour on the hour.
The line traverses the former right-of-way of the La Crosse & Milwaukee Railroad that once cut through the area between 1857 and 1896. Deep forest, valleys, rock cuts, and the world’s longest 15-inch gauge bridge highlight the round trip to Western Springs with a population of five residents. Taking a break from the Dells’ non-stop hustle and bustle, this trip yields relaxation for all ages as either a 4-4-0 or 4-4-2 steams along, following right in between the CPKC and Wisconsin River on either side of the line.
The future
But it’s not always relaxation for the Riverside & Great Northern as it strives for growth. I say this in a positive light when learning of the recent expansions that’ll pave the way for the railway’s future success. Recent credit goes to Bill Gardner, former owner of the Wisconsin & Southern Railroad, who is a major benefactor.
“Bill visited here last fall and fell in love with the place as so many of us had,” said Schulz. “He figured this was something he wanted to help out and see successful.”
For years after reopening, the preservation society relied on two 4-4-0s as the workhorses while occasionally rolling out its replica Tom Thumb. The steam locomotive roster now totals eight with the addition of three 4-4-2s, a 4-6-2 and a 4-6-4, all originally conceived by the Sandleys. “Our goal wasn’t necessarily to get all the Sandley-built equipment back here,” Schulz explained, “but it fits our purpose, and they are authentic.”
Recent and noteworthy acquisitions come from the Milwaukee County Zoo, which plans to operate all diesel on its railroad by 2025. Atlantic-type No. 1916 Harry J. Grant returned to the R&GN in April 2024 and has settled back into its birthplace. Pacific-type No. 1924 Irwin Maier will follow suit after the zoo’s 2024 operating season ends in October. Accompanying both locomotives will be long-time caretaker Ken Ristow, who is joining the society in a full-time position.
It’s not just the fleet that’s expanding. Sections of the campus are currently planned for redevelopment with two new buildings. “Volunteer Village” – where long-distance volunteers overnight in their campers and RVs – will be updated with concrete pads, running water, electricity, and a sewage system. For years, the ticketing/gift shop shared space with the car shop. The former will soon have its own building at the entrance of the museum grounds next to the parking lot. The dirt-covered lot itself will also be paved. A picnic pavilion with 15 tables, concessions, and restrooms will then be constructed. Schulz expects the projects to be completed by fall.
Despite residing in a tourist-driven area, attracting visitors has been a long struggle for the society. Now with a budget and having recently hired a part-time position for marketing, the wheels of rectification are turning with positive results. Schulz reports a 50% increase in ridership from last year, even with the 2024 summer season yet to be in full swing. An active presence on Facebook and a new billboard in downtown Wisconsin Dells (with more to be put up in the future) are helping spread the word of this classic Dells destination.
For this recent visitor and supporter, I find that and everything else at the Riverside & Great Northern Railway to be grand and hope future visitors like yourself will too.
